Hiking and breathing in fresh alpine is one of my truest pleasures in this world. Hiking to the Ink Pots via Johnston Canyon hits all of the check boxes. Icy blue water? Check. Shady trails? Check. Narrow paths that open to vast valleys and tremendous peaks? Check Check. For everything you need to know about hiking this trail, read on, fellow nature freak.

The Details: This is an out-and-back hike that is just under 12km round trip starting from the parking lot off the Bow Valley Parkway. Give yourself about 4 hours to complete the hike and plan to take a snack break once you get to the Ink Pots. Elevation gains are 608 meters.

This is one of the most popular trails in Banff National Park and your timing is directly correlated to your level of enjoyment here. Plan to arrive very early in the morning to secure parking and get ahead of the crowds. We arrived around 8:30am and the parking lot had just filled up, so we were able to park on the roadside. Some people indicate that late afternoon is also an ok time to start, but on our return trip to the parking lot, the crowds just starting out were unbearable. We did this hike the day before Canada Day and avoided most of the crowds by starting early.

Early Morning Start on Johnston Canyon Trail

First Stop: The Lower Falls

The trail starts off very flat and well paved. Our walk to the lower falls was quiet and we were able to stop often for photos and to check out the river below. It is about 1.2km to get to the falls and you have the option of peeking into a little tunnel to feel the spray of the water. It is a narrow tunnel, so a line does form to get in and out. We waited maybe 3-5min here, but saw that the line was 30+ people deep on our return. Be prepared to get wet if you go through!

Second Stop: The Upper Falls

Another 1.5km and a bit of an ascent will bring you to the upper falls. The crowds do thin out a bit more as you go further into the trail, and this is the end point for many of those who visit Johnston Canyon. There is a walkway that brings you to the base of the falls and then you can keep climbing to reach the top. It is a bit terrifying to see the sheer force of the water at the top, so be mindful of your fears! Again, a line does form at the lower platform for folks waiting to get a photo. Wait at your own discretion!

Trail to The Ink Pots

Keep going maybe 5 more minutes and here is where you will meet up with the “Moose Meadows” trail to the Ink Pots and where the total number of people on the trail declines drastically. This section of the trail is a bit tough. We were ripping off layers of clothing and taking little breaks with all of the ups and downs of the path. The distance is about 3km to the Ink Pots from here and don’t expect to see much other than fellow hikers and thick forest. The prize is worth it though!

The Ink Pots

The feeling when the trees start to clear and all you see are lush meadows, snow capped peaks, and emerald blue pools is indescribable. I spent HOURS preparing for this trip and had seen all of the photos of every trail and place we visited. Seeing this vista as our first intro to the Rockies was literally breathtaking. I had to walk ahead of Luke to hide my tears! It feels so corny to say this, and I still feel this way months after we’ve returned to our normal life, but this moment changed something inside me. Never have I been exposed to natural beauty of this magnitude. I now seek fulfillment from the outdoors more and more and get caught daydreaming of this place more often than not. I feel a pull towards spaces like this and a craving for the thrill this place brought to me. Moral of the story - GO HERE. And send me allll the pics of this place when you return.

Back to the details! The Ink Pots are five individual mineral springs of varying shades of green and blue. They fill at different rates and you can see the bubbling and movement of sand at the bottom of each pool. They are always around 4 degrees Celcius and should never be touched. Stick to the marked trails and bridges to protect them.

After walking through the different paths, we picked a quiet spot along the creek for lunch. Luke practiced his rushing water photography and we rested our feet for the return hike. You can continue on beyond the Ink Pots as part of the Moose Meadows trail, but that requires a bit more planning and gear. We were happy to turn around here and return the way we came to the parking lot. You get a different slightly different view of the falls on the way back, and if you time it like us, you will likely face the wrath of strollers and tourists from the tour buses all over the lower section of the trail. Scurry past them knowing you timed your hike just right and jump back onto the Bow Valley Parkway to continue your day!

Black bear sighting on Bow Valley Parkway after our hike

Curious about we packed for this day hike? Check out our packing guide for all of the trail essentials. This trail is well visited, so help is not far off if you need it, but it is always best to be prepared.

Click here to head back to our full Banff guide!

Featured